Thursday, July 3, 2008
Welcome to The Disability Mural
Welcome to the blog on adding your contribution to The Disability Mural. Included are written directions and photographic examples on how to create your own tiles, display your own mural, sample permission forms, and a list of keywords.
If you use these guidelines, please send us photographic documentation of your workshops and exhibitions. Any suggestions for making these directions clearer are greatly appreciated.
The Disability Mural is a unique expression of disability, the first community artwork created by people with disabilities. The Mural began in March 2000 as a 200 square-foot work, celebrating the 10th anniversary of the Americans with Disabilities Act. Response to the Disability Mural has been so overwhelming that to date over 1000 tiles have been created to date. Individual 12" square tiles are painted or collaged to express the artist's experience with disability. The artists are people living with disabilities as well as individuals who do not have a disability but who have experienced disability through family or friends.
The goal of the Mural is to express the range of experiences and emotions of people touched by disability. The Mural has been compared to the Names Project Quilt; however, where the Quilt is a community expression of loss and grief, the Mural is a celebration of the lives and contributions of people with disabilities. The Mural is housed in the CforAT Access Studio in Berkeley, and has been displayed in a variety of venues including the Mission Cultural Center in San Francisco, Oakland City Hall, the Richmond Arts Center, and the Olive Hyde Gallery in Fremont. The Mural will eventually be on permanent display at the Ed Roberts Campus, which will be built at the Ashby BART station.
For more information about CforAT, go to http://www.cforat.org, email info@cforat.org, or call 510-841-3224 (voice), or 510-841-5621 (tty). For more information about The Disability Mural, email fvalesco@cforat.org.
You can watch a short video about the mural at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxKX31nNKbg.
If you use these guidelines, please send us photographic documentation of your workshops and exhibitions. Any suggestions for making these directions clearer are greatly appreciated.
The Disability Mural is a unique expression of disability, the first community artwork created by people with disabilities. The Mural began in March 2000 as a 200 square-foot work, celebrating the 10th anniversary of the Americans with Disabilities Act. Response to the Disability Mural has been so overwhelming that to date over 1000 tiles have been created to date. Individual 12" square tiles are painted or collaged to express the artist's experience with disability. The artists are people living with disabilities as well as individuals who do not have a disability but who have experienced disability through family or friends.
The goal of the Mural is to express the range of experiences and emotions of people touched by disability. The Mural has been compared to the Names Project Quilt; however, where the Quilt is a community expression of loss and grief, the Mural is a celebration of the lives and contributions of people with disabilities. The Mural is housed in the CforAT Access Studio in Berkeley, and has been displayed in a variety of venues including the Mission Cultural Center in San Francisco, Oakland City Hall, the Richmond Arts Center, and the Olive Hyde Gallery in Fremont. The Mural will eventually be on permanent display at the Ed Roberts Campus, which will be built at the Ashby BART station.
For more information about CforAT, go to http://www.cforat.org, email info@cforat.org, or call 510-841-3224 (voice), or 510-841-5621 (tty). For more information about The Disability Mural, email fvalesco@cforat.org.
You can watch a short video about the mural at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxKX31nNKbg.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Tile Assembly Directions - Part 5 - Kiosks
The railing construction on plywood also works well for larger presentations that need to be portable or in situations where you can’t affix the tiles directly to a wall. A triangular arrangement is stable but you could also make a four sided kiosk. To attach panels together, use sturdy door or cabinet hinges that swing in both directions. Use extra long wood frame pieces on the sides to raise the kiosk off the floor. Wider and sturdier wood stock than the four-up arrangement is needed to accommodate the size of the hinges but the principle is the same. (See CityHallKiosk1 and CityHallKiosk2 photos for examples at Oakland City Hall.) Three or four plywood boards can also be displayed like an accordion folding screen against a wall. Theoretically you could put as many of these together as you wanted.
Note: Be aware these large sheets of plywood and tiles are very heavy! Loose pin hinges are better because you can just slip the plywood panels together at the site. Otherwise, screwing, assembling and dismantling hinges more than once can weaken the holding power on hinges and screws.
Don’t display panels in a way that is be precarious or that would be dangerous to passersby!
Note: Be aware these large sheets of plywood and tiles are very heavy! Loose pin hinges are better because you can just slip the plywood panels together at the site. Otherwise, screwing, assembling and dismantling hinges more than once can weaken the holding power on hinges and screws.
Don’t display panels in a way that is be precarious or that would be dangerous to passersby!
Tile Assembly Directions - Part 4 - Board Arrangements
Four-up arrangements: (See 4TileFrameFront1 photo.)
Step one - Backing board:
Cut 3/8” plywood into a 24” x 24”square. Glue 22” railing strips on the plywood backing horizontally with the 45 degree angle pointing up, angle on top edge towards top. (See 4TileFrameConstruct2 photo.) Use Phillips-head screws to attach the strips to the plywood.
The spacing should be the following: 1” from top edge, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 7 1/16” space, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 1” space, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 7 1/16” space, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 1” space. Total is 4 pieces wood, 2 7/16” spaces, 2 1/1/2” spaces. (See 4TileFrameConstruct2 and 4TileFrameConstruct6 photos.) Paint everything on the front, including the railing, with flat black to hide any discrepancies in the tile sizes when they are hooked on.
Step two – Frame:
Cut a groove in 1 3/8” wood stock such as pine, which is suitable for a strip framing. (See 4TileFrameTopBar and 4TileFrameTopRuler1 photos.) The groove should be 3/16” away from one edge (wide enough to accommodate the 3/8” plywood backing), 1/8” deep, and 5/8” from the opposite side of the wood. (See 4TileFrameConstruct1 and 4TileFrameConstruct5 photos.) Cut frame pieces into the appropriate length to enclose the plywood around three sides (about 1” extra from the plywood backing size). Reserve the top piece of the frame for last. Paint all pieces black; semi-gloss is a good choice. When the frame is assembled, the 24” x 24” plywood will drop into the slot. (See 4TileFrameConstruct5 and 4TileFrameConstruct1 photos.)
To assemble: Screw and glue the sides and bottom of the frame together. Place the narrow side of the groove in the frame towards the back. Next, hook the tiles onto the railings on the backboard plywood. (See 4TileFrameConstruct6 photo.) Slide the plywood backing and tile arrangement into the groove. The larger part of the frame will overlap the tiles slightly, keeping them in place. Screw the top part of the frame into the sides of the frame and the plywood backing. Use black screws or paint them black to hide them. (See 4TileFrameBack1 and 4TileFrameBackTop2 photos for a view of the back and top.) This frame arrangement prevents the tiles from popping out or people stealing work.
Note: Do not glue the top piece! You want to be able to remove it when you change out tile arrangements. (See 4TileFrameBackTop2 photo.)
If you are hanging this frame from wall mounts or hooks, use sturdy screw eyes and picture wire rated to hold at least 50 lbs. (See 4TileFrameBack1 photo.) Depending on the type of framing wood and plywood you choose, the tile/frame structure could weigh 25-35 pounds. See 12TileSideView1 photo for a larger arrangement, which weighs much more.
Step one - Backing board:
Cut 3/8” plywood into a 24” x 24”square. Glue 22” railing strips on the plywood backing horizontally with the 45 degree angle pointing up, angle on top edge towards top. (See 4TileFrameConstruct2 photo.) Use Phillips-head screws to attach the strips to the plywood.
The spacing should be the following: 1” from top edge, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 7 1/16” space, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 1” space, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 7 1/16” space, 1 piece of 9/16” wood, 1” space. Total is 4 pieces wood, 2 7/16” spaces, 2 1/1/2” spaces. (See 4TileFrameConstruct2 and 4TileFrameConstruct6 photos.) Paint everything on the front, including the railing, with flat black to hide any discrepancies in the tile sizes when they are hooked on.
Step two – Frame:
Cut a groove in 1 3/8” wood stock such as pine, which is suitable for a strip framing. (See 4TileFrameTopBar and 4TileFrameTopRuler1 photos.) The groove should be 3/16” away from one edge (wide enough to accommodate the 3/8” plywood backing), 1/8” deep, and 5/8” from the opposite side of the wood. (See 4TileFrameConstruct1 and 4TileFrameConstruct5 photos.) Cut frame pieces into the appropriate length to enclose the plywood around three sides (about 1” extra from the plywood backing size). Reserve the top piece of the frame for last. Paint all pieces black; semi-gloss is a good choice. When the frame is assembled, the 24” x 24” plywood will drop into the slot. (See 4TileFrameConstruct5 and 4TileFrameConstruct1 photos.)
To assemble: Screw and glue the sides and bottom of the frame together. Place the narrow side of the groove in the frame towards the back. Next, hook the tiles onto the railings on the backboard plywood. (See 4TileFrameConstruct6 photo.) Slide the plywood backing and tile arrangement into the groove. The larger part of the frame will overlap the tiles slightly, keeping them in place. Screw the top part of the frame into the sides of the frame and the plywood backing. Use black screws or paint them black to hide them. (See 4TileFrameBack1 and 4TileFrameBackTop2 photos for a view of the back and top.) This frame arrangement prevents the tiles from popping out or people stealing work.
Note: Do not glue the top piece! You want to be able to remove it when you change out tile arrangements. (See 4TileFrameBackTop2 photo.)
If you are hanging this frame from wall mounts or hooks, use sturdy screw eyes and picture wire rated to hold at least 50 lbs. (See 4TileFrameBack1 photo.) Depending on the type of framing wood and plywood you choose, the tile/frame structure could weigh 25-35 pounds. See 12TileSideView1 photo for a larger arrangement, which weighs much more.
Tile Assemby Directions - Part 3 - Railings
Railing (cleat) for both tile backs and for display:
These are long strips of plywood to be used in large displays. It is the exact same railing as the ones glued to the back of the tiles except it is in a long strip. (See 2Railings_Cleats and 2TilesWithCleatsBottomView photos.)
Plywood strips should be cut from 4 ‘x 8’ boards so that strips are 8’ long. (See Long Cleat1 photo.) Drill holes all the way through the wood at approximately 2 foot intervals to prepare them for screwing into a wall or other structure. Paint the top and side surface white to blend into white walls in case they show. (See 2TilesOnCleats2 photo.) These strips are versatile enough to allow for display in many locations and can be cut down as needed for any particular display area.
To screw railing to the wall for an exhibition, make sure that you follow the spacing for each railing in the 4-up arrangement (see below). The Mission Cultural Center1 photo is an example of a wall arrangement. The CCSF_Rosenberg2002 photos show the railing arrangement suspended on a chain inside a display case. In this construction a thin piece of lath was screwed at a 90 degree angle on the back of the railings to keep them in place. Railing stored safely in between exhibitions can be used indefinitely.
These are long strips of plywood to be used in large displays. It is the exact same railing as the ones glued to the back of the tiles except it is in a long strip. (See 2Railings_Cleats and 2TilesWithCleatsBottomView photos.)
Plywood strips should be cut from 4 ‘x 8’ boards so that strips are 8’ long. (See Long Cleat1 photo.) Drill holes all the way through the wood at approximately 2 foot intervals to prepare them for screwing into a wall or other structure. Paint the top and side surface white to blend into white walls in case they show. (See 2TilesOnCleats2 photo.) These strips are versatile enough to allow for display in many locations and can be cut down as needed for any particular display area.
To screw railing to the wall for an exhibition, make sure that you follow the spacing for each railing in the 4-up arrangement (see below). The Mission Cultural Center1 photo is an example of a wall arrangement. The CCSF_Rosenberg2002 photos show the railing arrangement suspended on a chain inside a display case. In this construction a thin piece of lath was screwed at a 90 degree angle on the back of the railings to keep them in place. Railing stored safely in between exhibitions can be used indefinitely.
Tile Assembly Directions - Part 2 - Labels
Note: If you have difficulties writing on the label after varnish is applied, use a Sharpie to add participant information.
When attaching a label to the back of the tile, include the following information about the participant: (See TilesBackWithCleatsLabel1 photo.)
Name: First and Last
Address:
Phone/TTY/cell phone:
Email:
Website (if any):
Date:
Tile #:
Workshop location:
Keyword from a list of themes or keywords to categorize your tile, for example, family, wheelchair, work, etc. (See keyword list.)
When possible, record the story behind making the tile or why this particular theme was chosen. MP3 or AIFF formats are acceptable for oral histories. A brief written description of a few sentences will is also be helpful.
Return your tiles to:
Center for Accessible Technology
2547 Parker St., #12A, Berkeley, CA 94710
phone 510-841-3224, email info@cforat.org.
Your tile is ready to go!
When attaching a label to the back of the tile, include the following information about the participant: (See TilesBackWithCleatsLabel1 photo.)
Name: First and Last
Address:
Phone/TTY/cell phone:
Email:
Website (if any):
Date:
Tile #:
Workshop location:
Keyword from a list of themes or keywords to categorize your tile, for example, family, wheelchair, work, etc. (See keyword list.)
When possible, record the story behind making the tile or why this particular theme was chosen. MP3 or AIFF formats are acceptable for oral histories. A brief written description of a few sentences will is also be helpful.
Return your tiles to:
Center for Accessible Technology
2547 Parker St., #12A, Berkeley, CA 94710
phone 510-841-3224, email info@cforat.org.
Your tile is ready to go!
Tile Assembly Directions - Part 1 - Individual Tiles
Please note that some accompanying photos have been enhanced with colored lines to better see construction. We don’t have assembly-in-progress pictures, so if you have questions please contact fvalesco@cforat.org.
Hanging railing for individual tiles:
First step:
Tiles are 12 x 12” Masonite cut from a 4 x 8’ sheet. Tempered Masonite is preferred because it is thinner, the edges don’t fray, and the back doesn’t soak in as much varnish sealer. You can buy Masonite at lumber yards, not at hardware stores. Do not use other materials. If it has another name in your local area, refer to the pictures for visual examples. Often times lumber yards will cut the large sheets for you but may charge a fee for doing so.
Railing (also called “cleat”) is 7/16” plywood cut from a 4’ x 8’ sheet into many 1 9/16” wide strips. On one end side of each strip make a cut on a 45 degree angle. (See LongCleat1 photo.)
Plywood pieces for railing should be approximately 8” to 10” long. The length doesn’t matter as long as you keep the railing at least 1" to 1 1/4” away from the side edges of the tile. That way the railing doesn't show when tiles are displayed. (See TilesWithRuler1 photo.)
The top piece of railing is glued flush with the top edge of the Masonite tile. The part facing the top should be painted black so it won’t show. (See TileBackWithCleat3 photo.) The smaller angle side should be placed against the Masonite facing down. (See TilesWithRuler1 and TilesBackWithCleat4 photos.) The larger side of the angle cut will face outside. (See TilesWithRuler1 and TileBackWithCleat2 photos). The bottom or second piece of railing should be exactly 8” from the bottom of the upper plywood railing (cleat) or 8 5/8” from the top edge. When placed correctly, the bottom edge of the railing should be 1 5/8” from the bottom edge of the Masonite. The angle of the bottom railing will be parallel the top one (See TilesWithRuler1 and TileBackWithCleat2 photos.) TheTileBackWithCleat3 photo is a view of the tile from the top. You can see railings placed with the 90 degree angle (flat side) on the top. TheTilesBackWithCleat4 photo is a view from the bottom; you can see the 45 degree angle cuts in the railings.
Use a good glue (like Gorilla Glue) to attach the plywood. Number the tiles on the top railing piece and on a label (if you attach one) with F + a number, e.g., F1, F2, F3. The F will stand for Florida and will be used to identify tiles in our database after you send them to us. Use a permanent black marker such as a Sharpie to write the number.
Seal the back with two coats of gloss acrylic varnish after you attach the plywood railing and label. If you don’t seal the back the Masonite may warp. Use a variety of colors to paint the front surface of the tiles with acrylic paint or colored primer. Just leaving the surface white makes for very uninteresting backgrounds and the color may spark some creativity by participants.
Hanging railing for individual tiles:
First step:
Tiles are 12 x 12” Masonite cut from a 4 x 8’ sheet. Tempered Masonite is preferred because it is thinner, the edges don’t fray, and the back doesn’t soak in as much varnish sealer. You can buy Masonite at lumber yards, not at hardware stores. Do not use other materials. If it has another name in your local area, refer to the pictures for visual examples. Often times lumber yards will cut the large sheets for you but may charge a fee for doing so.
Railing (also called “cleat”) is 7/16” plywood cut from a 4’ x 8’ sheet into many 1 9/16” wide strips. On one end side of each strip make a cut on a 45 degree angle. (See LongCleat1 photo.)
Plywood pieces for railing should be approximately 8” to 10” long. The length doesn’t matter as long as you keep the railing at least 1" to 1 1/4” away from the side edges of the tile. That way the railing doesn't show when tiles are displayed. (See TilesWithRuler1 photo.)
The top piece of railing is glued flush with the top edge of the Masonite tile. The part facing the top should be painted black so it won’t show. (See TileBackWithCleat3 photo.) The smaller angle side should be placed against the Masonite facing down. (See TilesWithRuler1 and TilesBackWithCleat4 photos.) The larger side of the angle cut will face outside. (See TilesWithRuler1 and TileBackWithCleat2 photos). The bottom or second piece of railing should be exactly 8” from the bottom of the upper plywood railing (cleat) or 8 5/8” from the top edge. When placed correctly, the bottom edge of the railing should be 1 5/8” from the bottom edge of the Masonite. The angle of the bottom railing will be parallel the top one (See TilesWithRuler1 and TileBackWithCleat2 photos.) TheTileBackWithCleat3 photo is a view of the tile from the top. You can see railings placed with the 90 degree angle (flat side) on the top. TheTilesBackWithCleat4 photo is a view from the bottom; you can see the 45 degree angle cuts in the railings.
Use a good glue (like Gorilla Glue) to attach the plywood. Number the tiles on the top railing piece and on a label (if you attach one) with F + a number, e.g., F1, F2, F3. The F will stand for Florida and will be used to identify tiles in our database after you send them to us. Use a permanent black marker such as a Sharpie to write the number.
Seal the back with two coats of gloss acrylic varnish after you attach the plywood railing and label. If you don’t seal the back the Masonite may warp. Use a variety of colors to paint the front surface of the tiles with acrylic paint or colored primer. Just leaving the surface white makes for very uninteresting backgrounds and the color may spark some creativity by participants.
Permission and Sample Release Forms
If possible, please have participants and tile makers sign some kind of permission form. Legally, if you want to use participants’ images for publicity you need to have them sign a waiver that all rights for reproduction will go to your organization as well as Center for Accessible Technology. Send a copy of this form back to us along with the completed tiles.
Here is a sample release form:
AUTHORIZATION TO RELEASE INFORMATION
I, __________________________, hereby give my permission for Center for Accessible Technology (and/or your organization name here) to use photographs, oral histories, poetry, journal writings, visual art and information about me and/or my family members for the DISABILITY MURAL display, promotions, marketing, fundraising, website, and recordings.
I understand that no other personal information regarding or identifying me will be used without my permission. In giving this consent, I release Center for Accessible Technology (and/or your organization name here) from any other obligation or liability owed to me in connection with any personal or ownership right I may have as a result of the sale, reproduction or use of the above-referenced identifying information.
Name_______________________
Date________________________
Address_____________________
Phone______________________
Email______________________
Here is a sample release form:
AUTHORIZATION TO RELEASE INFORMATION
I, __________________________, hereby give my permission for Center for Accessible Technology (and/or your organization name here) to use photographs, oral histories, poetry, journal writings, visual art and information about me and/or my family members for the DISABILITY MURAL display, promotions, marketing, fundraising, website, and recordings.
I understand that no other personal information regarding or identifying me will be used without my permission. In giving this consent, I release Center for Accessible Technology (and/or your organization name here) from any other obligation or liability owed to me in connection with any personal or ownership right I may have as a result of the sale, reproduction or use of the above-referenced identifying information.
Name_______________________
Date________________________
Address_____________________
Phone______________________
Email______________________
The Disability Mural Technical Guidelines
1. The mural is composed of squares. They are 11.75" x 11.75" one eighth inch tempered masonite tiles (use no other backing material). You may send tiles you make, or an image that we can adhere to a tile, to Center for Accessible Technology (CforAT), 2547 8th St., 12A, Berkeley, CA 94710.
2. Tile images should be based around disability issues or be created by people with disabilities. Please use your own original images and not reproductions out of publications.
3. Text can be used: make sure you integrate it into the visual design. It can be poetry, postcards, etc. Try to keep away from typefaces that look "posterish" or interfere with the visuals.
4. Collage is a good method, but you have to be sure of a few things. Photographs, paper, xeroxes, and computer art will work fine. Steer clear of color inkjet prints; they will fade in sunlight. Color xerox and color laser prints are better. Please check with us if you use expensive digital printing methods to make sure our varnish sealer is compatible. Do not use extremely three-dimensional materials or materials that will not withstand outdoor exposure.
5. Make sure that your material is adhered with acrylic polymer medium. Other adhesives are not permanent. To attach images that are on paper or fabric, generously apply polymer medium to the back of the image and to the area of the tile where you wish to place it. In order to be sure the edges are adhered, paint the medium on the tile beyond where you are attaching the image. Place the image on the tile and then apply more medium to the surface. Try to eliminate air bubbles by pressing from the center out to the edges with your brush. Don ‘t worry if the medium looks cloudy at first. It will clear when it dries. If you would prefer that we glue down your image for you, you are welcome to send a piece on paper (see above guidelines).
6. Unless your piece is black and white, or the white area is integral to the design, try to paint or draw on the whole tile or paper and cover the whole space with color. We prime our tiles with gesso and then paint a color ground first. If you use your own tempered masonite, please do the same.
7. Acceptable paints are acrylics or oils. Do NOT use watercolor, tempera, gouache, or non-permanent paints. Use only permanent felt tip markers - others will fade.
9. Please label the tile with the following information: name, address, phone, e-mail, and materials you used. Let us know if there were any issues raised during the project or if you would like to provide a brief written description of your piece.
10. If you would like to schedule a time to record an accompanying Soundpiece, a one- minute recording telling the story of the tile in your own words, let us know.
11. We assume no responsibility for any damage to artwork.
12. Copyright: any tile contributed to the project becomes the property of CforAT, which will copyright the entire mural. The artist retains the right to reproduce his/her image and recorded statement for any purpose, but CforAT has the right to use the image and recordings in the Mural as it sees fit and to reproduce them for publicity and other purposes. CforAT will copyright the entire mural. CforAT and the Designer, Frances Valesco, are not required to use the tile and have the right to slightly modify the original art work and edit the recording at their sole discretion as appropriate to integrate the tile into the whole mural.
13. Public display: Tiles and any soundtracks recorded with them are public. Many of them will be permanently installed at the Ashby BART/Ed Roberts Campus. In addition, we may put some of the images and recordings on our website or display tiles in other venues. Proceeds from any commercial reproduction of the Mural will go to CforAT to further its nonprofit mission.
Revised 4_08_F
2. Tile images should be based around disability issues or be created by people with disabilities. Please use your own original images and not reproductions out of publications.
3. Text can be used: make sure you integrate it into the visual design. It can be poetry, postcards, etc. Try to keep away from typefaces that look "posterish" or interfere with the visuals.
4. Collage is a good method, but you have to be sure of a few things. Photographs, paper, xeroxes, and computer art will work fine. Steer clear of color inkjet prints; they will fade in sunlight. Color xerox and color laser prints are better. Please check with us if you use expensive digital printing methods to make sure our varnish sealer is compatible. Do not use extremely three-dimensional materials or materials that will not withstand outdoor exposure.
5. Make sure that your material is adhered with acrylic polymer medium. Other adhesives are not permanent. To attach images that are on paper or fabric, generously apply polymer medium to the back of the image and to the area of the tile where you wish to place it. In order to be sure the edges are adhered, paint the medium on the tile beyond where you are attaching the image. Place the image on the tile and then apply more medium to the surface. Try to eliminate air bubbles by pressing from the center out to the edges with your brush. Don ‘t worry if the medium looks cloudy at first. It will clear when it dries. If you would prefer that we glue down your image for you, you are welcome to send a piece on paper (see above guidelines).
6. Unless your piece is black and white, or the white area is integral to the design, try to paint or draw on the whole tile or paper and cover the whole space with color. We prime our tiles with gesso and then paint a color ground first. If you use your own tempered masonite, please do the same.
7. Acceptable paints are acrylics or oils. Do NOT use watercolor, tempera, gouache, or non-permanent paints. Use only permanent felt tip markers - others will fade.
9. Please label the tile with the following information: name, address, phone, e-mail, and materials you used. Let us know if there were any issues raised during the project or if you would like to provide a brief written description of your piece.
10. If you would like to schedule a time to record an accompanying Soundpiece, a one- minute recording telling the story of the tile in your own words, let us know.
11. We assume no responsibility for any damage to artwork.
12. Copyright: any tile contributed to the project becomes the property of CforAT, which will copyright the entire mural. The artist retains the right to reproduce his/her image and recorded statement for any purpose, but CforAT has the right to use the image and recordings in the Mural as it sees fit and to reproduce them for publicity and other purposes. CforAT will copyright the entire mural. CforAT and the Designer, Frances Valesco, are not required to use the tile and have the right to slightly modify the original art work and edit the recording at their sole discretion as appropriate to integrate the tile into the whole mural.
13. Public display: Tiles and any soundtracks recorded with them are public. Many of them will be permanently installed at the Ashby BART/Ed Roberts Campus. In addition, we may put some of the images and recordings on our website or display tiles in other venues. Proceeds from any commercial reproduction of the Mural will go to CforAT to further its nonprofit mission.
Revised 4_08_F
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